Eager to make the most of the Deutschland-Ticket and fulfil a long-term ambition of visiting the Alps in summer, we made a last-minute decision to spend a few days camping in the German Alps. Our method of choosing Königssee as our final destination was quite simple. Using the Deutsche Bahn App and Google Maps, we sifted through numerous small Alpine towns to find a place that met three criteria: a) reachable by train using our ticket, b) with available campsite space, and c) preferably near a lake. After a few hours and several rejection emails, we finally secured a spot at Campsite Mühlleiten, Berchtesgaden by Königssee. Note: If I were to go again, I would certainly book earlier. Camping is extremely popular in the summer, and there were a few nerve-wracking hours when we weren't sure if we'd find a spot!
So, Where and What is Königssee?
The 'Königssee' is a natural lake in Bavaria, a couple of hours from Munich by train and about 30 minutes from Salzburg. As avid snowboarders, we like to think we have a decent knowledge of major Alpine locations, but this area is most famous for being a spot on the Sound of Music Tour, as the famous film includes aerial views of Lake Königssee and Obersee. The lake itself boasts crystal-clear waters and is situated within the Berchtesgadener Alps National Park. With only a few licensed electric ferry boats allowed, it's renowned as one of Germany's cleanest lakes. The lake is surrounded by the Berchtesgadener Alps, including the 1,874-meter (6,148-foot) high Jenner Mountain.
How Did We Get There and Back?
We had been staying in Munich, and it was a short trip on two regional trains to Berchtesgaden (take the regional train to Salzburg and change at Freilassing). From there, there are regular connections on local buses to the lake itself and neighbouring towns, all covered by the Deutsche Bahn ticket.
When leaving Königssee, we opted for a direct bus to Salzburg instead of two trains. This required us to pay a top-up fare of 3 euros in addition to our DB ticket. Since we were staying south of the city along the bus route, we decided to accept the cost. However, if we had wanted to reach Salzburg fare-free, we could have returned to Freilassing and taken the regional train.
What Can You Do There?
Hiking, biking, taking boat rides, and swimming (if you don't mind chilly water) are some options.
Throughout the summer season, the Jennerbahn cable car transports hikers and mountain bikers up two sections of Jenner Mountain. However, at over 30 euros per person, this wasn't feasible for our budget. Luckily, there are multiple paths up the mountain, each meticulously marked and colour-coded by difficulty. On our first hike, we made it to the midpoint of Jenner Mountain and took the longer route back to Berchtesgaden. Despite our exhausted legs, on the second day, we unintentionally embarked on a more challenging route due to not being aware of the colour coding. The views, though, were well worth the effort.
Swimming is possible in various parts of the lake. The most accessible spot is right behind the beer gardens and shops at the Königssee ferry terminals. The water is cold but perfectly clear, and submerging yourself is worth the initial chill. For a quieter and cleaner swimming experience, take a slightly longer walk to the swim spot in front of the bobsled run.
How Was the Campsite?
Accommodation in Königssee is pricey, and the same applies to camping. However, you're paying for the fantastic views, clean air, and access to the stunning mountains. The campsite has a small shop open daily until 8 pm and offers fresh rolls in the mornings. It truly was a fantastic place with hospitable, family-run owners. It was exceptionally busy, which, compared to other campsites we've visited in the past few weeks, can make the facilities feel slightly crowded and the spaces a bit tight. Nevertheless, this was the first hot weekend in August, so such crowding was to be expected.
Any Other Hints and Tips?
All supermarkets (Lidl and Rewe) are in Berchtesgaden, so be sure to stock up before hopping on the bus.
The frozen yoghurt on the way to Königssee village is fantastic.
There are some delightful beer gardens on the mountain trails that also serve homemade cakes. We even encountered an 'Oompah' band at the pub on Grünstein Mountain.
You cannot hike around the lake due to its steep cliffs. To see more of the lake, you would need to take an electric ferry. Unfortunately, starting at 11 euros each way, it exceeded our budget. Nevertheless, it appeared to be a fantastic way to explore the flora and fauna deeper in the national park.
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