We had heard a lot of very good things about Thessaloniki and arrived, tired but excited, to explore this city. In addition to its historic and cultural significance, Thessaloniki is known for its food and affordability, so we were confident we could see, eat, and enjoy it on a budget.
How we Enjoyed Thessaloniki on a Budget
Accommodation: It was August, peak summer, and very hot; camping was not a safe option. We needed a roof over our heads (and air conditioning). We also wanted to save money by cooking some of our own meals if necessary. So, we picked the cheapest (and smallest) studio flat in the Ano Polis (old town), which cost around £25 a night.
Almost a third of Thessaloniki was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1917, a catastrophic event that left over 70,000 residents homeless and destroyed thousands of shops and municipal buildings in the city centre. The region known as Ano Polis rises sharply up the hill from the city following the old walls to the Heptapyrgion Fortress. This neighbourhood contains the last remaining traditional Greek and Ottoman houses. It’s a peaceful area dotted with Palaeologan churches, traditional tavernas, and the occasional (very good) hipster coffee joint. Note: We hadn’t fully researched Thessaloniki's areas to stay in before we arrived as we shifted our route quite substantially over the period and hadn’t quite realised how steep Ano Polis was. So, the walk from the seafront home was quite a climb! Fine for us, as we enjoyed the walk, but it would be a challenge on foot for those less mobile.
What We Did
Walked, Walked, Walked (FREE):
Despite the hills and the heat, Thessaloniki is Greece’s small(ish) second city, and the historic monuments and markets are perfectly suited for exploring on foot. In August, it’s best done in the morning and evening, with midday to early afternoon spent indoors out of the sun for rest, meals, and potentially napping. We were really impressed with the self-guided walks provided by EnjoyThessaloniki.com. These routes covered all of Thessaloniki’s top historic, modern, and foodie destinations. All must-see historic landmarks in the city, like the Byzantine churches, are clearly marked with information signs in English and Greek, providing useful facts about the site. A few of the churches are only open to the public at very specific dates and times, so do check before you go. TIP: If you only do one walking tour, make sure it’s in Ano Polis!
Visited the Ataturk Museum (FREE):
Step into Turkish history and learn about Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, ‘the Father of Turkey,’ by taking a tour of the house where he was born and grew up. It's a really informative free museum in the centre, housed in a renovated traditional Ottoman home. It's a great way to spend an hour or two learning about Ataturk’s early life, his rise to power, and his role in creating the modern Turkish state.
Went Eating (Prices as Below): We’d heard a lot of very good things about the Thessaloniki food scene, and it didn’t disappoint. Here are a few of our personal favourites:
Tarantoúla - Vegan Greek taverna (a meal for two with beer/wine >30 EUROs). This is the best food we’ve had on the trip so far and really reasonably priced! Highlights include Kidney bean meatballs, vegan saganaki, and spicy veg hot pot. Also, a litre of chilled wine (white or red) is only 6 EUROs, and beers are 3.50.
Falaifel! This city loves falafel (and so do we!). Our go-to place was Egyptian Falafel, just up from the Ataturk museum. A falafel wrap is only a few EUROs, there’s a substantial vegan menu, and the huge chickpea salad was exactly what we needed after a few too many days living mainly on Burek!!
Snacking on vegan truffle piroski and olive oil ice cream in the beautifully renovated Agora Modiano Market. It reminded me of somewhere Phil might visit should ‘Somebody Feed Phil’ make it to Greece!
Yaya - Smells Like Home - probably the best Freddo Espresso in town and definitely the best-named!
Pretty much everything we ate in Thessaloniki was vegan; the options were plentiful, and the prices were reasonable. Unfortunately, we didn’t manage to visit everywhere on our list, so here are a few more places I had hoped we would try, in case you’re in the area and need inspiration.
rOOTS - A vegan Greek restaurant in the market district
The Cretan Cafe - We fell in love with Cretan food a couple of summers ago and it’s not easy to find in London!
Η στάση (συνεργατικόν καφενείον) - A traditional small plates/ mezze taverna in Ano polis with gots of vegan and veg options
Getting There and Away:
The coach journey from Skopje to Thessaloniki took roughly 6 hours, including a short queue at the Greek border. Note that there are two intercity bus stations, one on the outskirts (Makedonia) and one much closer to the train station (Monastiriou). It’s definitely easier to get in and out of the latter if you’re coming and going from the city centre, so it's a good idea to check your ticket.
We left for Athens on a KTEA coach, excited that this would be our final long-distance bus ride for a month or two, from the same station we arrived at, Monastiriou. The journey is roughly 7 hours, and the ticket price is around 37 Euros per person.
Comments